CARNAVAL - A cruiser friend just had to kiss the trunk of the elephant

Nancy and I have had a great time since arriving in Panama City with our generous hosts Ron & Heather aboard Sun Dancer.  We spent the first few days provisioning Sun Dancer for our coming adventure(s). Not to be missed was of course……CARNAVAL in Panama City…the second largest in the world! Lets just say we enjoyed music…delicious foods…beers…uh, more beers…more music….uh, more beers… and more delicious foods! The sights were amazing, the parade floats were colorful and exciting, and the Panamanian people were friendly.

Sun Dancer at anchor - Panama City

Our first sail was to Isla Taboga (our favorite) and of course it’s CARNAVAL time on Taboga as well, which means LOTS of people on a little island and beaches. After a few warm days we set sail for the Las Perlas islands, 35 miles distant, and to some beautiful anchorages that the only word I can use is awesome. This is what cruising is all about, great friends, calm seas, and toasted drinks towards beautiful red sunsets and turquoise blue water.

 We spent a few days enjoying some of the many wonderful Las Perlas islands, ending with a dinghy trip to Isla San Telmo to see the “Explorer” submarine beached since 1865. While on the island four boys came along with a six foot long live iguana in hand…”Comida por la cena” (food for dinner). Well heck, as many of you know, nothing beats good fried iguana for dinner, I’ve even heard it called “Chicken of the Tree”! Hmmm, I wonder if they ever serve “Iguana wings” with BBQ sauce! I’ll check on that and get back with you…if you’re interested.

A new resort community is currently being built on Perlas Island...far from any population = $$$$$$$

Listen..... you can actually hear the warm breeze in the palm trees ......Ahhhhhhhh

The Original Take Home Dinner...it's "Chicken of the Trees!"  

San Telmo Island - The 1860 Submarine "Explorer"  - Nancy is ready for more explorations!

As we soon found, three other cruiser boats had heard, via the SSB radio morning check-ins, that Sun Dancer is heading to the Darien.  Sailboats “Iris”, “Gosling”, and “Rio Nimpkish” asked to tag along with Sun Dancer, as we have been there before and can lead the way. Sure! Come on along! We’re heading deep into the Darien jungle and further to our Wounaan friends village 7 ½ miles up the shallow mangrove lined Rio Sucio.

We approached Bahia San Miguel on the rising tide and entered the shallow Rio Sucio, closely watching the depth sounder as its alarm sounded warning after warning of shallow water.  With only two feet of water under Sun Dancer’s keel, we slipped into the deeper channel and safety of the river’s anchorage.  

We dropped anchor into the same secluded spot where just last year Windfall had set peacefully for our two separate trips to visit our Wounaan friend’s.

The next morning, we led the way as our little pack of dinghies raced up the river…well, ok, one dinghy only had a 5 Hp motor…so we plodded up the river. Along the way, Nancy and Ron spotted four Toucan birds in the trees above. Time for a photo shoot and chasing toucans along the river!

Sadly, progress has touched upon our loved village, we spotted logging activity near the village and a logging road passing next to the village. Recently, the Wounaans were granted land ownership and sadly a logging company came in with cash and equipment to buy the hardwood logs for a mere $40 per tree. That may sound like a lot for a tree, but take a look at the picture and tell me if you’d sell your forest of rare hardwoods for this low price each. But, on the positive side, there is now a dirt road leading to another village that has the PanAmerican Highway only 4 hours  away and Panama City at nearly 7-8 hours. 

Word travels fast that four “Yatees” are anchored in the lower river. One bota (a small fishing boat) came along side of “Iris” and asked, “Is Sam and Nancy here”? Yes, our friends said, they are at your village right now! And with that, the bota’s motor was at full throttle and racing toward the village.

Anchored safely in 15 feet water on the Rio Sucio - Darien Wilderness

Ron(Sun Dancer) and Janet (Iris) having a great time in Cana Blanca

Ya'll get ready for this!

Nice eh, Ron?

The church concrete project is now completed - thanks to "my" concrete crew! Very nice!                                                         The blue canvas background is a gift form last year

And you thought rice came in a bag...nope! It has to be pounded and sifted - The chickens know a free meal

Nancy with her Wounaan friend Coralia in the church

Explaining how to correctly apply creams and medicines-in Spanish!  (Nice job Nancy!)

Danielle gathering delicious fresh oranges for us to enjoy...and they ARE delicious!

Friends always.....

Chief Aladino with his aunt in traditional dress accepting our gifts

They sang for us, blessed us, and thanked God for our safe return to their village

No that's NOT a red head child! Whew! It's Sam with Daisy (Chief Aladino's wife) and their new daughter.

Ron with friends in the village

Chief Aladino, wife Daisy and family - Beatrix (in purple) is one of our favorites!

Ron and I had a great time as we explored the village and surrounding areas

Drying salted fish for the village

Daisy had made this beautiful little basket for Nancy's return (we said we would return and she knew we would) - it took 15 day's to make this basket for Nancy.

Sam met the government health worker - Said NO Malaria or Dengue Fever in this area for 30 years. Whew!

Sam catching fresh oranges tossed down from the tree

The children were waiting for Sam to return

Ok, so they were waiting for Nancy too!

Inside Chief Aladino's casa we look a photos from our last visit - they've kept all our photos

The children helped Sam read a children's book...in Spanish!  -(Thanks Jorge for the Spanish lessons)

We were greeted by our Wounaan friends with the best reception one could ever ask…lots of smiles and waving hands. Of course, our “Yatee” friends were welcomed and greeted as friends and not simply as cruisers wondering around their village.  I did ask how many Yatees have visited Cana Blanca since last year… four boats came into the river but never made it to the village…so we were the only cruisers to visit the village for the last two years! Believe me, it’s not easy to find even when you know where you’re going!!

Upon arrival, I had to check my concrete floor project we poured in the church last year. I was surprised to see the concrete floor was finished and even the wooden stage was completed! The floor looked wonderful and my “crew” did a fantastic job of completing the project. I even found traces of a new concrete project for a community center – a large thatch open sided building for the community. The old adage to “teach a man to fish and he will feed his family” comes to mind. I was proud to have taught our friends a much needed new skill that will benefit the whole community.

With many gifts aboard, it's a slow 4 mile dinghy ride to our anxious friends

Wonderful gifts and donations from friends and family are MUCH appreciated by Cana Blanca freinds!

I can't see! I can't see! What's Nancy got ???

Baby toys and powered milk are always needed and much appreciated

"Captain Ron" putting on new strings on Evan's guitar....New strings makes a difference! (Thank you Ron for your help)

The next morning Nancy, Ron, and I returned to the village where our friends were waiting with the church open to accept our bags of gifts and wonderful donations from friends and family. Generous cash donations bought much needed seeds – Corn, carrots, broccoli, cucumbers, watermelon, onions, and garlic. (The store in Panama City asked what commercial farm Nancy was buying all the seeds for).

After the items were passed out, music and song filled the church. The “Jefe” (Chief) asked for Ron, Nancy, and I to stand in a circle inside the church, soon we were surrounded by the entire village blessing us and thanking God for bringing us to them. Believe me, this was an honor and memory we will never forget.

Nancy brought a recipe for Banana Pancakes made with only one banana and two eggs…the Wounaan women loved the new tasty dish! Thank you, Rain (daughter-in law), for the recipe!  

With promises to revisit our Wounaan friends again next year, we set sail for the remote town of La Palma to restock some needed items…ok, beer and diet Cokes. We met up with our 3 other cruisers boats for a planned trip up the Rio Sabana – a river Nancy and I have never explored before and promised to be a true adventure visiting another Wounaan village 17 miles up the river.

Near La Palma - remains of an old Spanish fort to protect the gold from pirates!

Oh yes Senior, we have cock spurs for the Saturday night cock fights

I know you wanted to see the spurs...so here ya go!

Navigating the shallow Rio Sabana 17 miles up river!

Janet can't make up her mind...the beauty and quality is just too good to choose!

Yes it's a real ..and they USE it - Stockade for your ankles made from HEAVY Cocobolo wood

The material for making those beautiful colorful baskets!

Here's the local store...or "Tienda"in Spanish

Now picture the boats leaning 25-30 degrees and sitting on the bottom! GULP!

We were lead to the community “center” where the village women laid out their baskets and carvings for display.   Deals were made and money exchanged with smiles all around.  Later in the evening everyone came aboard Sun Dancer for snacks and drinks. As the tide began to lower, questions and concerns were raised of how low the tide can become this far up the river…Hmmmmm.  Well, La Palma can have up to 20 foot tides… Hmmmmm.

Similar to the tide, the drinks continued to flow.  Hey look at that, we’ve only got 1 foot of water under the keel! Huh? Uh oh… a spotlight was cast downriver to the other boats…which were now happily leaning at 25 degrees and resting firmly on the river bottom.  Soon, Ron’s depth sounder read    “-0.1” feet of water under the keel…we were sitting on the bottom as well. The decision was made to leave at the rising tide …which wouldn’t happen till midnight.

For our cruiser friends, leaving the “cookie” option turned to “ON” with your Chartplotter is a great option when going up a river you don’t know and have to exit in the dark of night. Spotlights were cast from each boat, lighting up the shore. Luckily, only Iris briefly ran aground as we were leaving and gently made its way to deeper water…Whew! (For legal purposes, “No boats were harmed during the making of this adventure”).

We anchored a few miles upriver from La Palma for the night, the next morning we motored to La  Palma to buy more beer and Diet Coke and enjoy having internet to connect with the “real world”.  I was reading a recent article about a 16’ Boa Constrictor….in the Darien…. swallowing a whole man! GULP! WE ARE IN THE DARIEN!! “Hey Nancy…..Nancy….now where’d that girl go”??

With no winds and very calm seas, Ron calculated we needed to leave La Palma at 5:30pm, motoring the 60+ miles to Mogo Mogo in the Las Perlas islands to arrive at 6am. .

We are currently anchored just off the beautiful island of Mogo Mogo… after a nice refreshing swim in the crystal clear 80 degree water, and now sipping on a cold drink…Life is good.

A very special “Thank You” to Ron and Heather for your wonderful friendship and generous hospitality while aboard Sun Dancer. We had a wonderful time… Thank You, thank you, thank you!

Cheers, everyone! 

Ohh...and WHILE we were in the Darien we seen this report.....WARNING FOR THE FAINT OF HEART OR PREGNANT WOMEN....DO NOT READ THIS ARTICLE BELOW!!!!

5 Meter Long Boa Constrictor Swallowed A Man Whole In The Darien

A huge boa constrictor that was more than 5 meters (16 feet) long swallowed a man whole. This incident - which has not been confirmed by the authorities - allegedly took place in the jungle community of Embera-Wounaan ethnicity, known as Sierpe, in the Darien province.
The incident was reported on 30 January this year, when natives of the community caught the reptile that was moulting or shedding its skin.
At the same time, when they saw the snake in the Darien jungle, they noticed that the lump inside of the snake was shaped like a human being.
The reptile was caught by hunters and taken to the community by more than a dozen men.
The snake measured the length of a "red devil" bus - those that are used in the capital.
When the huge reptile was cut open they found the body of a dark skinned man inside, which was already in an advanced state of decomposition.
All that happened to the amazement of those present.
In order to get to that community one must cross the Santa Barbara river.
After removing the body of the unidentified person, the tribal chiefs proceeded to perform a ritual for the soul of the body, which was later buried.
The community bears the name "Serpie" which in the Embera-Wounaan language means "Snake".
It was learned that when traveling to that place, between the trails in the jungle, one always encounters all kinds of snakes.
After the fact, the rumor about the unusual event ran for three days through all of the Darien communities, and only recently reached the ears of the officers of the State Border Service, a source revealed.
"Critica" tried to obtain an official statement from the Public Ministry from one of their prosecutors, however, it was reported that none of the offices held or file a report on the incident.
For his part, the director of the State Border Service, Frank Abrego said they have no report of that event, claiming the institution is responsible for issues and news related to the police, such as drug trafficking and countering narco-terrorist organizations. (Critica)

(Don't say I didn't warn you!)