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| Jeff, Denielle, and Bodhi |
Whew! We’ve had a busy schedule while visiting and traveling in the states, leaving Costa Rica, and now we’re anchored off a little island in Panama!
First, Denielle gave birth to our beautiful grandson, Bodhi Kai. After 36 hours of hard labor, and finally a C-Section, he arrived into the world. Denielle was a trooper for sure. Nancy was on hand weeks ahead to help with the labor and after the baby came home. Oh, and the new daddy, Jeff, could not have done a better job caring for Denielle and new son, Bodhi. Congratulations Denielle and Jeff!
We were very fortunate to have Nancy’s son, Eric, daughter in law, Rain, and our 2 Year old granddaughter, Keziah, all come from New Mexico to Reno to see the baby. We also meet Shannon, Jeff’s 7 year old daughter, who was much help with the baby…and with keeping Nancy and I busy as well. We made a trip to Lake Tahoe, local Reno parks, and a trip to Circus Circus where we had a ball...Our belly’s still hurt from the huge buffet dinner! Ohhhhh!
According to granddaughter Keziah, Nancy is now known as “Me-la”, and Sam as “Poppy”….I guess that’s how she say’s “Grandma and Grandpa”…but we actually like our “new names” better anyway.
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| Rain, Eric, and Keziah |
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| Great Portland friends: Lois, David, and Roger |
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| Sam and his best friend Jim Cheney |
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| Our family: Jeff, Shannon, Denielle, Bodhi, Nancy, Sam |
After a wonderful drive from Reno to Portland, visiting with friends, and having delicious dinners at our old favorites (Island Café and Lupe’s Escape), we continued to Roseburg to visit Sam’s Mom, family, and more friends – we even took in the local County Fair! Sam’s relatives own a ranch and are 4H leaders. Many of the children received several blue ribbons for showing their black angus cattle! Way to go Walt, Brenda, and the “Rockin’ WC Ranch”!
We drove back to Reno, where Denielle and Jeff asked us to be witnesses at their courthouse wedding….nice, simple, and took a total of only 17 minute according to the parking meter! But, I must say, Denielle never looked so beautiful holding their new baby, and Jeff as proud as any new husband and father could be. Congratulations to both of you! What a beautiful new family we have! We also welcome Shannon as “New Granddaughter” and a part of our new family as well!
We flew to Florida to visit Nancy’s Dad, sisters, brother, and their family. We enjoy Florida and visiting Nancy’s family is always a treat. Our brother-in-law, Danny, was building a cool new airboat for the swamps. Others were busy with their businesses, school, sports, and just busy with life in general. Nancy and I did some yard work at her Dad’s house…whew! Let me just say…Florida is HOT and HUMID!
Nancy and I arrived Friday back in Golfito, Costa Rica where Windfall was safely moored. We were a bit under the pressure as we had to check out of Costa Rica that day!! Otherwise, we’d be paying weekend overtime for ALL the officials to check us out, but most importantly, Windfall only had a 90 day Visa to stay in Costa Rica (all boats get only 90 day Visas) or we faced a large fine! No thanks!
We finally got checked out, promising to be out of the country Sunday morning. Of course, when you’re rushing to get things done it seems things fall apart….we had trouble with an ATM machine. We tried to get $300,000 Colonies ($600 US Dollars) but the machine terminated the transaction. This is common as most machines may not have that much money in them, so we tried for a lesser amount of $300…nope, same thing! What the $%%$##$%%^% So, off we went to the local “Banco”…. Where we were told we’d have to take the money from our credit card. Que? Arghhhhhhh!
We got back to the boat and contacted our bank to find that the money ($900 total) was indeed deducted from our account ….along with some nice transaction fees included! But…we never received the money, or any receipt! Nancy was calm, collected, and …ok, a bit “upset” when she called our bank and was told it could take up to 45 days to resolve the issue and to get our money back! Note: Generous contributions are always welcome for poor stranded sailors in desperate need of coldies!
We anxiously left Golfito around 10am Sunday morning with an ETA to arrive in Northern Panama in the darkness of early morning, so we decided to go slowly and sailing as much as possible. Well, as most sailors know, anywhere you want to go the wind is ALWAYS on the nose, the current against you, or no wind at all…all horrible for sailing! We did sail several hours, but ended up slowly motorsailing throughout the night.
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| Nice, ehh? You can almost smell the coconuts! |
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| Nancy at Isla Gamez, Panama |
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| When casting to a crocodile...use HEAVY LINE!! |
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| Beach Babe Nancy and beach campfire |
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| Four lobster tails....oh my! And they're still wiggling!! |
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During the night, we were about 5 miles off the Costa Rica coast when we were approached in the cloak of darkness by the Costa Rican “Guardacoastas” aboard a speed boat searching for drug runners. They slowly passed Windfall, checking us out with their bright spotlights to make sure we weren’t drug runners aboard a new secret high-speed stealth 42 foot sailboat doing a whopping 3 knots per hour. We knew Windfall was the only boat on radar and thought they’d come aboard to check us out…I guess we weren’t worthy enough. As they sped off, I placed them as a “target” on our Radar to track them during the night….they stayed in the darkness and about two miles off our starboard… all the way to the Panama boarder.
Earlier, we received an email from our friends aboard “Hobo” about a nice anchorage in northern Panama called Isla Gamez and not to miss it, we plotted our course with an ETA around 9am. Along the way we spotted 3 or 4 large whales rolling 200’ off our starboard. I checked our depth on the sonar at 1,200’ deep and guessed they were busy getting lunch from the “fish market” below. At least they didn’t have any Japanese “research ships” and those “Whale War” guys chasing after them!
At 8am, with bright Panamanian blue skies and tropical green Isla Gamez in sight, we used our SSB radio and were lucky to contact our friends Jerry and Lauren aboard SOMF as they were nearing Bahia del Sol, El Salvador…nearly 500 miles away! They are on their way to sunny La Paz Mexico for the winter season. We just missed them leaving Golfito by a day, we will miss our good friends as we continue our adventures and wish them fair winds. Have a cold Pacifico beer for us when you reach Mexico! Adios, mis amigos!
At 9:30 we arrived at Isla Gamez, a tiny 5 acre tropical green island, where we dropped Windfall’s anchor parallel to a beautiful coconut tree lined sandy beach. These coconut trees are in desperate need of a hammock and sway back and forth in the gentle breeze…we’ll see what we can do about this…later, of course, no need to hurry.
As we looked over the beautiful island, visions of Rogers and Hammerstein’s “South Pacific” come to mind with the music and song “Bali hai” singing softly in the background. Not bad, not bad at all.
I checked our hand-line we drag behind the boat for fishing during passages….only to find “something big” had broken its 100 lb line during the night! Dang! That’s another one that got away with my “secret jig”, it’s no wonder this is known as the Fisherman’s Paradise! Note to self: Must get heavier line next time...or, try for smaller fish….Nah….I’ll go with heavier line!!!
Well, it didn’t take long for our dinghy, “Blondie”, to drop into the water and head to the beach. Soon, we were swimming in the warm clear 83 degree turquoise water! We had a picnic lunch under the cool shade of a large overhanging tree on the beach. As we ate, we gazed out to several nearby islands, some no bigger than a parking lot, and just begging to explore and snorkel their surrounding water. Coconuts lying on the sand were plentiful, so I used our machete to chop into one for its sweet refreshing water. It’s doesn’t get any fresher than this, folks! But, as I sucked down the fresh coconut water, Nancy reminded me that fresh coconut water is also a “natural laxative”….Uhh, here, you have some…I’m good now, thanks!
As we walked along the beach, iguanas and crabs scampered and hid in holes dug into the warm white sand…and let me just say those little crabs are FAST…and the iguanas…well, locally they’re called “Chicken of the Tree”! Now, I ask you….who could turn down fresh roasted iguana on a stick?
We couldn’t help but renaming Gamez Island as “Ted’s Island” for those of you who are Captain Ron fans! We have many new places scoped out around the local islands to explore and snorkel….and that 83 degree water calls out to us every day to jump in and enjoy.
We returned to the boat for cool showers and to relax with a couple well-deserved coldies to end the day. Now, let me just paint the picture for you…Warm tropic breeze, smooth jazz softly playing in the background, the beautiful tropic islands at sunset, the delicious smell of dinner rising from the galley, with Nancy relaxing in the cockpit wearing her swimsuit and a good book in hand….Yes, life may seem to fall apart at times…. but, oh when it’s good…it’s Goooooood!
It’s now 9:00pm with not a light to be seen but a tiny strobe light blinking in the far distance marking a fisherman’s net set for the night. We are comfortable, safe, and secure aboard Windfall, our complete and self-contained “Shangri-La”.
Life is good……..very gooooood!
Yesterday we didn’t do a thing at all! Ha the weather was windy and overcast, we didn’t feel like getting off the boat to do much but sleep, eat, and read. This morning I got on the SSB radio and talked with Jerry and Lauren in Bahia del Sol, El Salvador (500 miles away)! They are back where we all stayed in El Salvador and said they will be there till October waiting for a clear weather window to cross the Bay of Tehuanapec and back to Baja Mexico (La Paz). Jerry said there is an old Tall Ship at the dock and they are going for a ride around the bay with the local island children…the adults are to dress up as pirates – sounds like a lot of fun for all. Jerry said while I was gone, to the states, it poured down rain at Golfito! He said they filled their 500 gallon water tank with rain water. A lot of cruisers do this, Nancy and I will definitely make a water catch system as it’s free and good water to put into the tanks without running a watermaker.
Today looks to be nicer and a promising snorkel day. A couple days ago we went to the island to explore and I chopped a fresh coconut for the milk…yum! We saw a couple of local boats stop by the island to pick up coconuts on the beach to take back to the villages. We’re very excited to go snorkeling today and get into the warm clear water for a swim.
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| Fresh from the tree...Vino de Palma ! Yum!!! Thanks Carlos! |
While we were relaxing in our hammocks on the beach a fisherman named Carlos stopped by to sell us Lobster. He then invited us to his home to get some avacados tomorrow. The next day he arrived in a kayak and we went to the neighboring island. We met his nephew and wife, uncle and his father and a few brothers. The family was warm and welcoming. We conversed as best as we could as they knew no English but Nancy was able to understand most of what was said. We were given a cup of Vino de Palma, a local fermented palm juice. We were even taken to the tree and shown the tree it came from. That night Carlos and his nephew and wife came aboard and we showed them hospitality by tasting various mescals we had from Mexico. We had a very nice time that night.
Nancy’s making breakfast this morning...pancakes! Yum!! Last night she made corn muffins with red peppers and corn kernels inside….Delicious! We are going to try our hands at making bread…something we’ve never done before but want to do as we love fresh bread. I also make a mean garlic butter for spreading on French bread…. I roast the garlic (broken into pieces with the paper still on) in a hot pan till it gets burn marks on the outside. When it’s tender the garlic pops out of the paper skin and is sweet and tender. Then I chop into little pieces and put into the melted butter and reduce the butter till clear…..Oh Boy! Is this good! With the last batch I made I added chili powder to spice it up….YUM!! All this talk of food…I must be hungry
ISLAS SECAS (Venado Island)
We decided to go to another group of islands called Islas Secas about 30 miles distant, while the engine was warming up our friend Carlos stopped by to give us 4 huge scallops to enjoy for dinner! He showed off 10 lobsters in his kayak and several conchs in the shells he had caught that morning.
We set a course for Islas Secas where there is a resort that rents yurts for $600/night! No thanks! But, the tents were placed in some beautiful settings, one was on a large rock and the only way to it is with a boat. We arrived early afternoon and soon were in the water with snorkels exploring the nearby rocks and beach. What an awesome place to stay a few days, the water is clear, warm, and with lots of fish to keep us guessing what types they are.
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| 15 pound Sierra Mackerel..delicious! |
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| Elizabeth Taylor's La Peregrina is an early 16th century pearl, ruby and diamond necklace by Cartier, that was gift from Richard Burton, is estimated at $2,000,000 - $3,000,000 |
The next morning we were having breakfast in the cockpit when we spotted some HUGE humpback whales passing by in the deep channel. Quickly, Blondie was lowered into the water. We were on our way out to see the whales. I couldn’t help but put on my mask, snorkel, and fins and jump into the water at the sight of one whale swimming near the dinghy. With Nancy in the dinghy and peering over the side I jumped into the deep blue water! Splash! Within a minute the HUGE whale was 15 feet right below my fins… GULP! It’s no exaggeration to say this Moby Dick right beneath me was easily 50 feet long! What a treat….for me that is, I was just hoping not to become Moby’s new breakfast snack!
With Blondie at full throttle, dolphins played in our wake and lead the way back to the island playing in the wake of Blondie and showing off the way dolphins do. We dropped our small anchor near a coral reef then jumped into the colorful turquoise water like kids on Spring Break. I spotting several conchs I wanted to pick for dinner…but, Nancy wouldn’t allow me to…something about her not wanting to get it out of the shell, and cleaning it was out of the question…of course this conclusion is only what I could surmise from her expressions as we were under the water…but I think I’m pretty close to what she meant.
That night fish gathered around Windfall’s lights sparkling on the water, so I thought I’d try tossing a spinner out and see what I could catch. It didn’t take but a minute for “something big” to start ripping out line with the reel screaming “Zzz-Zzz-Zzzzzz!” The fish stayed deep, leading me from the stern to the bow…hoping not to wrap around the anchor chain! Nancy pointed a spotlight in the dark water with hopes of seeing the fish. With a loud SNAP! We watched as a silver flash in the darkness parted the line and was never to be seen again….Dang! Another “something big” that got away! Sheesh!
The next morning we jetted Blondie to a few snorkel spots we spotted earlier, as we were finishing up our last exploration, a sailboat passed by we thought we may have seen before. Sure enough, “Zeppelin” was docked at Bahia del Sol, El Salvador with us. After they found a beautiful spot to drop anchor we invited them over to Windfall for evening coldies. Wayne and Ellie are avid scuba divers and asked if we would like to tag along in the morning for a day of diving. Sure! They even have a compressor to fill our tanks! (big bonus!) We dropped the dinghy anchor at a small remote rock outcrop where the water drops off to a nice 70 feet deep. This is a well-known spot where Manta Rays hang out, but today they Dive Gods were not with us and no Rays were spotted. We did enjoy diving along the reef wall and seeing different corals, sea fans, and of course tropical fish of all colors playing along the steep rock wall.
We talked with Zeppelin about going to another anchorage, a tiny island, Isla Jicaron, about 8 hours sail further south. About 8am our course was set with sails raised…ok, and with the motor running as the wind as only 3-5 knots, but it was a beautiful day out on the water anyway. As we approached our anchorage destination the wind and waves were not friendly, large surf was roaring onto the near beach and rocks with waves crashing clear over the tops! Ok, this anchorage is not for us. But, Windfall did manage to catch a very nice 8-10 pound Sierra Mackerel that Zeppelin promises to barbecue for dinner tonight. Yum! Oh yes, and yet another “Something Big” broke my 80 pound hand-line leader and made off with another “secret jig”...I’ve GOT to get heavier line! This is incredible; I’m going to get some 150 pound line to catch one of these monsters….and I’ll need a bigger boat too! (just kidding Nancy!)
Oh my! The surf is definably “UP” this morning with wave growing to 6-7 feet and breaking along the coconut tree lined beach…..very nice if you’re a surfer, but makes for a long night rolling in bed. Another anchorage 5 miles further down the island was chosen to spend our second night in a small area surrounded with rocks protecting us from the breaking surf.
Wednesday 31st – New anchorage. Dinner was delicious with Elle serving a fantastic dinner along with our “Catch-o’-the –day” slowly grilled over the barbecue and served with a nice selection of wines….it’s a tough life, I don’t know how we can stand it either.
This morning we’ve got light rain with lightening flashing around us, but it’s letting off and promises to be a beautiful day. I saw Wayne in his dive suit working with his anchor chain, so over I went to see if I could help. His main anchor, and a stern anchor he put out to hold the boat into the waves, tangled and fouled around a coral head during the night. Not good, but now they’re resetting the anchor and all is well.
Nancy’s camera recently broke, time for a new one when we reach Panama City…another item to add to the growing shopping list.
Saturday Sept 3rd – Nancy’s birthday today, we’re on passage and plan to celebrate when we reach Panama City. Happy Birthday, Nancy!
Sunday Sept 4th – We arrived at 10 am after a stormy, rainy, and lightning filled night at sea…I watched 2 movies in the cockpit during my watch while Windfall held course and Nancy slept soundly below. As we entered the island anchorage whales were spotted breeching in the distance. What a nice place Contadora is! Windfall and Zeppelin set anchors in a “perfect spot”, but were told by the Federal Policia we had to move…this is where the ferry boat and glass bottom boats come to load passengers. Ok, no problem (especially since we haven’t officially entered the country and do not have the paperwork).
Needless to say we’ve had a great time in the Las Perlas islands and will be back as soon as we can provision the boat and get some repairs done, plus I still have a submarine to go dive upon in these islands so we HAVE to come back!! The 90 islands that make up the Las Perlas are names for the large pearls found in the waters here. We are on Isla Contadora (Counting House Island) named for the accounting of the pearls before they were shipped to Spain. There have been LOTS of real pirates and buccaneers cruising these waters for centuries!!! A pirate story names 18 pirate ships (anchored right where we are today) who were in hiding from several English Navy War ships!
400 years ago the largest pearl ever found was found (31 carots) here by a slave, it was so magnificent the slave was given his freedom for finding it. In the mid-16th century it was given by King Phillip II of Spain to his new wife Queen Mary I of England, later it belonged to the Bonaparte family...yes that Bonaparte! In 1969 it was purchased by Richard Burton to give to his wife Elizabeth Taylor and is still owned by her estate today. It is noted that the pearl was “lost” for a period of time when her pet dog ran away with it in its mouth! Ha! No mention of how long before, or how, the pearl was retrieved!
Oh, in 1979 when the Ayatollah Khomeini kicked out the Shaw of Iran, this island is where the Shaw came to with all his hundreds of millions of dollars; we are anchored off the beach right by that large home right now! How cool!
Monday Sept 5th –Labor Day Weekend in the US. Zeppelin decided they are going to Panama City this morning to anchor for a couple of weeks before returning to the Las Perlas. We decided to stay a couple more days to relax, enjoy the calm anchorage, and explore the local islands. Just 3 miles away is Isla Mogo Mogo where the TV series “Survivor” is filmed…Nancy wants to go snorkeling there, so now it’s on our list of things to do!
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| Nancy on Isla Mogo Mogo - (2003 Survivor TV series filmed here) |
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| SHARK!!!! Yes, it was that close!!! |
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| Snorkel spot...just look at that water! WOW! |
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| A "Survivor" of Mogo Mogo Island. |
Isla Mogo Mogo was deserted, no TV crew or contestants but we found lots of beautiful shells.
We’re anxious to get to Panama City to provision and get necessary parts. Our generator and our main engine both need starter relays….Ugh! Motors! Sails only fail without wind! But we really cannot complain, everything on the boat has run great and we’ve not had any real major issues.
As I was typing this blog entry, two HUGE humpback whales passed within 50 feet of Windfall and exhaled loudly right beside the cockpit!! Uhhh, that high-pitched girlish Eeeeek! you may have heard was NOT me….and you can’t prove it!
